Captain's Log

GOOOOD MORNING!

Eleven and a half hours later, we’re pulling into Smith Creek, just west of Point Lookout on the North shore of the mouth of the Potomac.  We’ve read some mixed reviews about this spot, but the location is right.  There’s a brand new fixed face dock, but a lot of single boat slips that are in really poor shape.  I guess that accounts for the mixed reviews.  Anyway, Alec, the dock dude directs us to the face, and we’re secured in a flash.  Decided not to anchor out, as the forecast is for 25-30 knots with gusts to 40, and if we ended up here for a few days, didn’t want to have to move.  Also, Justin trailered our dinghy here from Solomon’s today, and put it in the water here.  We need to grab it.  White Star is tied at the wall, and she’s reunited with Alizann, secured on deck within 20 minutes.  We’ll take a test drive later, as it’s getting pretty dark.  There are some very tired boats here that don’t look like they’ve been moved in a long, long time.  Besides us, there is only one other transient boat here.  On “Lady Gus”, Wayne and Linda tell us that they arrived just today, and are going to wait out the weather here.  We don’t get any “Trick or Treaters”, so we’ll just have to eat the treats ourselves.  Through the night we can hear the wind rising, and as predicted, it is gale force by morning.  Waves out on the Chesapeake aren’t too big yet, but the winds are supposed to continue until Monday.  As we don’t want to get stuck in an anchorage half way to Deltaville, we decide to hang here.  During the day, Suzanne and I get some office work done, me in the pilothouse with the laptop, her down in the office, doing month end on the desktop.  One of the cruisers across the way has some pretty loose lines, and is banging the adjacent boat.  I give Alec a call, and he goes out to retie.  45 minutes later, I look up, and the piling that the bow has been retied to is leaning at a precarious angle, the end poking into the starboard porthole on the bow.  Alec and I go out.  I bring a 200’ line so that we can snag the piling and pull it across to the next dock over.  Bad news, the tide is falling, and the piling top is jammed under the lip of the porthole, and won’t budge.  We try to heel the boat by standing on the opposite rail-no dice.  Okay, A call to his boss.  Another 45 minutes of falling tide, and Joe shows up with a comealong so we can really crank on my line.  Long story short (sort of), half hour later, in the driving, 50 degree rain, we get ‘er retied, and the errant piling pulled away into the adjacent empty slip.  I ask Joe if he should call the owner, and he tells me he doesn’t know who it is-boat hasn’t moved all summer.  I’m thinkin’ maybe the guy would have been happier if we’d let her go-seems like there are a lot of boats tied up here with the same stories.  Tied here, slip fees not paid-just abandoned.  What a shame, I’m sure that there are folks that could give these boats enough love to revitalize them if given a chance.  We have Wayne and Linda over for a 5-7, and what a story!  They’re from Minnesota, have never had a boat larger than a runabout, and decided that they wanted to liveaboard.  They retired, found a 34 year old custom built 42’ cruiser, sold all their stuff, and moved aboard exactly 4 days ago.  A professional captain brought them through New York, and left them and their boat on the Chesapeake Bay.  After 2 days on their own, in moderate seas, they pulled in here, and are very anxious about leaving.  Seas are forecast to moderate by Monday (to 1-2’), so Suz and I suggest that we can help them off the dock, and they can travel with us.  We offer to swap crew, as both Suz and I are 100 ton captains.  They’ll think about it.  Hey, we’ve got our new digital antenna, but are out in the stix, and there ain’t no channels here.  The little restaurant here is closing today, and they’re having an emptythefreezer allyoucaneatbrunch today.  The joint has a couple of stools around the homebuilt bar, and a couple of tube type TV’s from the last century, but they have satellite-oh, and buck-and-half beers.  I’ve got control of the remote, ‘cause the bartender doesn’t work on Sunday, and we’ve got snacks (crab legs, mussels, rockfish, fried chicken, wings, crab cakes, fries, onion rings,-you get the picture).  After Brady vs. Manning XVI, we roll back home to find that the “Lady Gus” gang is contacting their captain to take Wayne and the boat to the Intracoastal Waterway, while Linda drives his car down.  We’re a little concerned about their level of preparedness for living Their Dream.  Maybe we’ll see them along the way.

Monday morning dawns crisp and clear with a 15 knot breeze. We have a gorgeous run down to Deltaville, VA, complete with dolphin and pelican (they started appearing around the Potomac) sightings.  We’ll do a quick overnighter, maybe picking up a few extra oil filters and impellers for our spare parts bin, as there are a couple of boatyards and a West Marine there.

Signing off for now-        

Can’t feel too sorry for ourselves, sitting at the dock in 25-30 knot winds waiting for better weather.  Our neighbors back on land took this at our land dwelling yesterday

Helloooo,

October 22, and we’re finally underway again.  Forecast was for 20-25 knots out of the North, and 3-5’ seas, but there is hardly a breeze as we pull off the dock in Solomon’s at 0730.  The Girl rounds the corner to head down the Chesapeake, and Hello! There’s the forecasted conditions-on the nut.  Beam seas of 2-4’ heading out of the creek, but once we turn South, they’ll be on our stern.  Fine with us, our little ship loves following seas.  The sailors following us out aren’t having so much fun, rolling 20 degrees and sitting in the mist created by the tops of the waves blowing off.  Sipping my second cuppa, and munchin’ on my egg muffin I be smilin’.  Gonna be a windy, gray day, so “White Squall” starring Jeff Bridges sounds like good entertainment.  Five hours later, the entrance to the Potomac is a washing machine.  Wind and current are opposing the incoming tide, and the waves are standing straight up.  Our intended anchorage is dogmeat, even though it is mostly in the lee, so we abort and tuck in on a shallow creek behind Cobbs Island. As it turns out, it’s not as shallow as the chart would indicate, and since it’s off season, there aren’t many other boats around.  I fact, we’re the only boat moving at all.  We shoot down the hook in 10 feet of water, and the drizzle turns into a downpour, which really simplifies the “washing the boat” deal.  Next morning, the weather’s an instant replay-gray and windy.  If Suz didn’t have a flight out of Reagan in the morning Friday, we probably would have stayed put.  I’m not sure what I expected, but the Potomac River is really wide at its’ lower half, and is quite rural.  Even on this gray and windy day, the scenery racing by at 7 knots is quite beautiful.  About halfway to D.C., we start seeing more and more military installations cloistered behind restricted waters dotting the otherwise uninhabited banks, as well as a few centuries-old forts.  My fertile imagination runs wild as we pass antenna farms, huge satellite dishes, little harbors with military vessels tucked in, truck-sized tunnels exiting the bank above the shore (with no road or apparent access from the water), and Quantico-replete with its cadre of Osprey VTOL aircraft and helicopters.  Could be the backdrop for a spy novel-maybe Jack Ryan or Jack Reacher.  Our excitement level elevates as we pass Mount Vernon (home and burial place of George Washington) on our port side.  Half an hour later, the Woodrow Wilson bridge rolls into sight just below Alexandria.  Next, the Washington Monument and the Jefferson Memorial appear low on the horizon.  I’m not sure which sight stirred the old patriotic juices more, this or the Statue of Liberty-let’s just call it a draw.  The Gangplank Marina will be our home for the next week.  It’s pretty funky, but well-protected, and just a walk from the National Mall, with a Metro (subway) stop right there too.  As we’re tying up the Docklady, Dianne, tells us that this is the largest liveaboard marina on the East Coast.  Off the boat, we take a quick walk to get our bearings.  Suz and I took our 2 day honeymoon here after being married in North Carolina, on our way back to school and work in Ann Arbor.  During a period in my previous life I spent a bit of time here as the chairman of my professions’ political action committee, but entering any city from its waterfront provides a completely different perspective.

Friday morning we hop on the Metro to get the Admiral out to Reagan for her flight to Madison, Wisconsin for some wedding dress shopping with our daughter, Ali.  After returning to the boat, I decide to trek over to the marine supply store for 6 gallons of oil, filters and etc. for some routine maintenance that I have planned.  Our neighbor, Greg gave me the keys to his truck, but I’m kinda uncomfortable driving his nice truck in downtown D.C.  Can’t be that far, can it?  Yup, sure is.  Especially with 45 pounds of oil and assorted stuff.  After a few unsuccessful attempts to bum a ride from other customers, the service manager takes pity on me and has a tech drive me back to the marina.  How come these quick jobs are rarely quick?  I’ve got 2 frikkin’ oil filter wrenches onboard, but do you think I can find one?  Thank God for the “chain link” visegrip.  At least I got to listen to the Sirius 60’s station asloudasiwanted for an hour and a half, and nobody was there to hear me cursing.  Chores done for today, I’m reading on the back porch as my neighbors are returning from work.  It’s really strange to see folks walking down the docks in their suits, with their briefcases, and hopping on boats.  The next few days passed pretty quickly, filled with small boatchores, touristing, reading, and WATCHING FOOTBALL!  Did I mention that Scottie and I put in a digital TV antenna?  Now I can get the local network channels in addition to our satellite stuff.  (Don’t even get me started on why my satellite provider couldn’t provide me with the networks-it’s a convoluted FCC deal-RV’s can, boats can’t).  Suz is back before I know it.  Mission accomplished-wedding gown ordered, rehearsal dress purchased, and the Admiral’s dress picked out.  I’m gonna have to clean up my diet-she’s not a fan of Cheetos and beer for dinner ( I wasn’t that bad-I had salads a couple of nights too), but sometimes you just gotta do it.  Over the next few days we hit some museums and the Capitol, as well as monuments.  Everyone has their favorite attractions in D.C., so I won’t get into a lot of recommendations, BUT, if you haven’t been to the Holocaust Memorial, I can guarantee that visiting will be a Powerful Experience.  I went the week that it opened, back in the day, and again this trip.  Both visits were unique.  If you don’t have favorites because you’ve never been to D.C.-go!  (It’ll make you prouder of being an American).  Okay, I’m off the soapbox now.  Thursday the night of the30th, and we’re off to Safeway, a short walk from the marina, to provision.  I know that they have Cheetos, but find out that they also have great fresh produce as well.

Halloween morning, 0600, and it looks like the clear, 75 degree days that we’ve enjoyed for the past week are at an end.  It’s overcast and 48 degrees-good day for rollin’ down the river.  We’ll do a long one today, to the mouth of the Potomac-I’m guessing about 11 hours or so.  Justin will drop our dinghy off at the Lookout Point Marina near the Chesapeake Bay, so we can grab it there.  He says it’s running like a top-we know he worked his butt off to get it right, and it’s one of those Ka-Ch$ng moments for us.  In reality, it is for him too, as he put in a lot of hours that he didn’t bill us for, ‘cause(as Scottie says) he’s that kind of guy (refreshing).  Passing  Mt. Vernon, we spot a pair of bald eagles nesting on the green buoy directly opposite-I’m thinking old George is smilin’.  The rest of the way down the river, the depthsounder is lighting up nonstop with schools of fish-we heard the Stripers (aka Rockfish) were running, but I’m too snuggly warm and lazy to break out my rig.  Ah, almost forgot.  There was an awesome fresh fish market that I found on my way to get oil a couple of days ago.  I’m not too sure what the health department says about it, but what this Farmers Market for fish lacks in cleanliness, it makes up for in quantity/variety (I know that doesn’t make sense, but it sounded good to me).  Crustaceans, mollusks, cephalopods, and fishes could be found in abundance-and the prices were right.  I love living on the ocean.  Just passing our anchorage from last week, Cobb Island.  Seas are much kinder today, and a couple of hours to go.  Our plan is to head South on Saturday, but the forecast is for 5-7’ seas, so we’ll see.

-Hasta Luego  

Fueled up, and it’s time for our part of the Great Krogen Raftup.  38 Krogens, all stern-to on opposing docks, bows knitted together in an intricate weave.  The dance is orchestrated by the MacDaddy of all dockmasters, Randy Pickleman, who’s barking orders on VHF channel 17 while his capable crew of dockdudes handle lines.  Looks like the ballet of hippos in Disneys’ “Fantasia”, and the Girls are lookin’ pretty happy about spending the next week with their sisters.  Randy’s the Man, he’s been doing this job for around a decade, and makes it look all so easy (I think he was a cat herder in his former life).  The next 6 days will have something for everyone.  There will be educational seminars by various speakers, running the gamut from technical (engine maintainence, offshore cruising, troubleshooting, and electronics), to social networking for boaters (ActiveCaptain founders, Jeff and Karen Siegel), to travelogues (Canadian Maritimes, Cuba, and Transatlantic).  After the days’ educational work is done, docktail parties and organized (disorganized too) dinners take us to “Krogen Midnight” at 2100.  Capping the event on Saturday night is a catered feast followed by live, classic rock ‘n roll provided by “Classic Case”  who’ve been playing this gig for the last few years.  Interspersed is a whole lot of socializing, and the feel is akin to getting together with cousins that you haven’t seen for awhile-5 minutes together, and it’s like you’ve never been apart.  The whole event is a cooperative effort, as all participants volunteer for duties that range from event planning to cleanup.  This year, the participant list is comprised of Krogenites, Wannabees, and Gonnabees.  For the first time ever, the “old hands” are outnumbered by members who are attending their first rendezvous, 52% to 48%.  For my part, the gathering gives me a great opportunity to learn from others experiences, and I do a lot of listening, and not so much talking.  We also got a chance to see Lauren and Bill again, as they drove from Ontario, and joined the party as Wannabees.  By the end of the show, I was pretty worn out by too much food and sips, and too little sleep.  As Dirty Harry so eloquently put it “A man’s got to know his limitations”-guess I can’t run with the big dogs anymore, but I’ll be damned if I’m gonna sit on the porch.  Have to get in better shape for next year.  On Sunday morning, at the Captains meeting, we get our marching orders for unrafting.  Randy’s show, and we’re outta there too fast.  In 40 minutes, we’re all untangled and the silence is deafening.  Place sure looks different with everybody gone.  The Girl pulls back to the dock, as Suz and I are headed back to Michigan for dental appointments, and to check on the dirt dwelling before winter.  Bill and Lauren drive us to the airport, where we bid them adieu until next summer, when we will meet them back in the Maritimes for a tour of Labrador and Newfoundland.

We pick up the rental car at Detroit Metro, and are immediately dropped onto I-94, where traffic in the slow lane moves at 80 MPH.  Holy Crap!  I haven’t driven in a few months, and am used to life at 7 knots-things sure happen a lot faster at 80.  I repent, and ask forgiveness for all the times I groused about the “Old man”  driving too slow on the freeway.  After an hour or so, I’m back in the groove, albeit cautiously.  We stay with Dick and Jan in Okemos (just outside of East Lansing).  They are continuing to recover from the horrific auto accident last May, and are making slow, but steady progress.  While in town, we hit our dental appointments, visit my old office and friends from the area for the next 2 days.  Next on the docket was a trip to Grand Rapids, to meet our friend (and stockbroker) Mark Darnell.  After a long (but way too short) lunch we pushed on to the house in Charlevoix, where other friends awaited our arrival. I think that we caught up with all of our buds in Northern Michigan over the next 4 days, it was nonstop.  During the days lots of prewinter chores were knocked off.  That was cool, it was different-I don’t get to use the chain saw and leaf blower much on the boat.  Before heading back to the airport in Detroit, we visited my Dad in Traverse City, as we hadn’t seen him since Spring.  We were able to watch a come-from-behind victory by the Lions (he’s a long-suffering diehard fan) with him on TV.  After that, we all went out for a great dinner.  Next morning at O’Dark thirty, we’re ready for the four and a half hour drive to the airport, and find the keys locked in the rental car, courtesy of Yours Truly the night before.  While I’m monkeying around trying to break in, The Admiral is on the phone with a towing company.  The kid gets there 40 minutes later, gets out of his car, and leaves it running.  It takes longer to do the paperwork and pay him than it did for him to open the door and start the car.  On our way back to the airport, we’re both pretty quiet.  I know what she’s thinking “I don’t miss anything but our friends”-Suz agrees, and we decide that coming back to land every 6 months or so is definitely in the cards.  Nine hours later, we’re back at the Girl, then out for seafood dinner with our friend, and electronics guru, Scottie.  We’ll work on the Girl tomorrow, installing a digital TV antenna (so we can catch football on network TV) together, and he’ll scope out a few electronic gremlins on board.  I’ll replace a leaky H2O pump on the generator, and a circuit board on one of the air conditioning units while he’s there in case I need a little hand holding.  While we’ve been gone, Scottie’s bud, Justin has had our recalcitrant outboard, and thinks he’s got the problem(s) doped out.  It won’t be ready before we leave for D.C. on the 22nd, but we’ll figure something out.

Hasta Luego

Port Annapolis Marina.  The Girl has come full circle.  During the later stages of her commissioning, Alizann spent a winter berthed in this slip, receiving guests from Michigan (Suz and I) nearly every other weekend.  It was in this slip that the Anne Arundel County Fire Department E.M.S.  plucked me out of the cockpit with an arterial bleed obtained while opening some boat toys with a VERY pointy knife.  (Still made it to the airport for our flight home that afternoon after multiple sutures.)  Suzanne also avoided a trip to the pokey after a string of very pointed (pun intended) questions about how my injury occurred.  Not sure why they suspected domestic abuse except for the fact that the injury was the result of unbelievable stupidity.  Maybe her admonishing the paramedics not to remove the tourniquet because I would bleed all over her boat added fuel to the fire.  I dunno-just sayin’.  Kadey Krogen’s office is here at the marina, so I go on up to visit with the gang.  Larry Polster, KK’s V.P., introduces us to a new member of the team, Jennifer Burkett.   After cleaning The Girl up, we were off to dinner at the restaurant, “Level” with Larry and his wife, Janet, accompanied by Jennifer.  What a great evening with lively conversation and sumptuous food at this small-plate eatery.  Thank-You, Larry.  The following day, we catch the free shuttle to Annapolis to visit the Naval Academy, where we spend most of the day.  The Annapolis Boat Show was to open soon, so town was really hopping.  The traffic was crazy, and the problem was compounded by the abnormally high tides that were exacerbated by high winds out at sea.  The roads and low land around the waterfront were all flooded. 

After two too-short days, we were on the move to St. Michael’s, a must-see three hour cruise from Annapolis.  When we arrive, we find that the docks are pretty much underwater due to the high tides.  Fortunately, we had planned to anchor out in Leed’s Creek, about a mile or so from St. Mike’s (thanks Larry).  On our way up the creek, we pass by a Selene motoryacht working on a fouled anchor chain.  The hook was halfway up, and there was a lady in a tender under the bow working while a gentleman on the deck was doing his part from up above.  “Need help?”  “No thanks, we’re O.K.”  We get the hook down in 18 knot winds under sunny skies, and I’m smilin’ cuz the Girls’ wind generators and solar panels are “makin’ money”.  Tender’s down, and after a vote, 2 out of 3 cylinders decide to move forward #@%$!!!.  Yep, the folks on the Selene, “Alacrity”, are up for cocktails this evening-their place.  Across the way in St. Mike’s, the fixed docks are under water.  The dinghy dock is around the corner by the Crab Claw parking lot.  Fortunately, the D dock is a floater, as there is no parking lot, just a very shallow extension of the harbor.  Too funny.  The restaurant is still open and they are ferrying customers in on a semi-monster pickup truck.  A quick recon reveals an upscale downtown and “Yelp!” leads us to Gina’s, a really funky, kind of alternative Mexican restaurant.  Good music, and great food.  On the way back, groceries and another pot of Mums ($6).  Chesapeake Maritime Museum on the agenda for the next day, we’re doing the silent prayer to the gods of outboard motors for the mile or so back to the Girl.  A little sip with Craig and Barb aboard “Alacrity”, and we’re cashin’ in our chips.  First thing in the morning, we again have a quorum, and majority rule gets us back across the river.  We meet Lisa “Changing Course”, who clues us in to the good trinket shops in town, and then we’re off to the Maritime museum.  It is as good as its’ reviews, and gets the 5 hours it deserves.  It was such a pretty day that we strolled the back streets, and then did a little window shopping in town.  Lunch/dinner was taken at Foxy’s Harbor Grill.  We give it “3 stars”, 4 for the outside patio on the harbor, 2 for……well, you get the picture.  We spy 2 Krogens at the town dock.  They’re “Daydreams”, and “Waterford2”, a pair of buddy-boating 39’s that we met on Lake Superior a few years ago, and have been in touch with since.  Nobody was home, but we left our boat card, hoping to catch up with them later.  More sips with Craig and Barb, this time at our place, but not until they finish the Bronco’s game on T.V.  They live in Colorado during the winter, and cruise the Chesapeake in the summer.  We get their favorite anchorages, and share some good conversation.  Another day in The Life.  Before bed, we dial up Doug on “Daydreams”, and find that they’re heading down the bay tomorrow, and may hit the Krogen Rendezvous in Solomon’s-Yay!  The next morning we’ve got a pretty good breeze still.  It’s been blowing 15-20 knots from the south for a few days, and seas are predicted to be 3’-5’ with a 4 second frequency (steep, close waves) from the south where we’re heading.  The two 39’s, as well as “Changing Course” decide against going, and in fact, are headed to the anchorage that we are vacating.  Thought we’d stick our nose out to see what the seas were like, and after an hour and a half, we get around the corner and find it’s pretty lumpy.  Only 3 hours more, and we’ll be in the lee of land for another hour to our anchorage in McKeil Bay on the Little Choptank River.  It’s sunny, so off we go.  Not bad.  We pick up “My Dreams” on the AIS, about 5 miles behind us.  They left N.Y.C. as scheduled, but unlike the Girl, they have a 4’ 6” draft, and were able to take the Intercoastal  Waterway, thereby avoiding the seas in the Atlantic.  Guess my concerns about them were unfounded.  Right now, the seas are bouncing them around a bit, so they’ll head in to shelter short of our intended anchorage, but will catch up with us in Solomon’s.  When we arrive at McKeil Bay, the winds are howling, and the land around this open bay is pretty low, affording very little shelter.  No worries, the waves are blocked, even though the wind isn’t (ka-ching.  Wind generators).  Entertainment is provided by a sailboat cruising in while I’m waxing the Girls’ backside.  After 4 tries, they get their anchor to hold, but not without some drama on deck (as viewed through binoculars).

October 7th, and we’re headed to the much anticipated Krogen Cruisers Rendezvous, held at Calvert’s Marina in Solomons Maryland.  The seas have moderated to 1’-3’, and the winds are S.W. at 15 knots for our 4 hour jaunt.  On the way, we do the “crab pot boogie”, and arrive at Calvert’s fuel dock at 1125, just as “Klassy Kadey” is pulling off.  Perfect timing for our fuel up, which is graciously priced at Calvert’s cost for the rendezvous participants.

Adios                                                                                                                                                                                                     

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